19 October 2007

Dogon country to the end

Djenne led us to the Dogon country, where my roommate (Lydia) jumped out of a tree (at a restaurant) and really messed up her ankle. After a long, painful drive (on seriously non-existent roads) we arrived in Songhai--the true definition of the middle of nowhere. Also, during the drive we had to make a detour across a river because the bridge broke

The Dogon country is a step out of most worlds. These people have been living like this for so many thousands of years. Obviously there has been people living in Africa for many thousands of years, but the way these people live hasn't changed much. They are incredibly isolated and very "undeveloped (what a shocking word)." There is no electricity, except for the occasional solar panel that charges a small battery to light a bulb, no running water, people cook with charcoal and live totally off the land. Clothes are washed in the local watering holes/ponds. Food is based on millet crops and animals.

Onions and tea are also grown locally. There are over 80 dialects of "dogonkan (Dogon language)," each village having their own adaptation, and most people don't even speak Bamana (Mali's "national" language). French is unheard of, except for small children who have aptly learned "donnez-moi 100 francs/biki/bonbon (give me 20 US¢/pen/candy)!"
The landscape and setting is unbelievable. People (pygmys) moved into the nearby cliffs (rock houses) in the 1100's when the Arabs started coming because they didnt want to be converted or killed, and the remains are still very alive and well preserved. Very few people still live in the cliff houses now, but they live in their own mud huts (with grass roofs). Our trek took us 2 days, and we spent the night on the roof of someone's house in tents or the open air (feeding the mosquitoes).

After Dogon trekking we returned to Segou (looooong drive-15 hours!), dined in luxury, swam in the pool, and relaxed in the AC. Monday (October 8) was market day in Segou and it was BUSY.

Return to Bamako, back to class, work, and regular old life. On Monday (October 22) we all move into our homestays. I am going to be staying in a neighborhood called Lafiabougou (relax village: lafia=relax, bougou=village) in Bamako. I have switched apprenticeships and will be working and learning about beaded jewelry. I will be working with a woman (woohoo!) who has worked in Mecca for 7 years. She recently returned to Bamako. I will post more once I am settled!

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