bamako business

Bamako is intense and over-stimulates every sense. Massive swarms of people, wrapped (head to toe) in bold colors and patterns fill up the narrow "sidewalks," which are merely sewer coverings. Cars, motos and sotramas (big vans, with benches around the edges, that hold 20+ people and a rack on the roof on the top for big "things") rush and jolt down the roads (with no stop lights) belting out big clouds of dirty, smelly exhaust. After spending time downtown I feel as if I've contracted emphysema and can usually pull some serious dirt out of my nose, ears and bellybutton.

Going out in Bamako is always an adventure. Plans are fluid and overly flexible; word of mouth is the only way to find out about info and the language barriers sometimes makes for an interesting soirée. We have been told many times, from our interpretation, that there will be something happening somewhere and when we show up there is nothing there or something else is happening. The best example is when we tried to see an independence day (September 22--47 years free from France) event/celebration and it was a Jesus concert (an anomaly in Muslim Mali). On the other hand, when plans do work out they have always been absolutely outstanding and our Malian friends (Daye Kone, a jeli, in particular) have led us to unbelievable outings. For example I was dancing on stage with Salif Keita, I shared a beer with Lobe Traore and saw Toumani Diabate for next to nothing. Those are the big name people that I have already seen--Oumou Sangare is around for the next month or so, and there is live Cuban music every weekend (seen that twice!). Most Thursdays the Super Jiata Band plays at a place called Foyer de l'ar, which is a very open-air venue with some of the cheapest beers known to (wo)man (a 650ml bottle for 600cfa, about 1.27us$)!

The market is one of my favorite areas to spend time in. This is an absolutely massive market and I am constantly lost, in a good way, whilst walking around. My favorite section is the fabric section and the bead area, which are kind of intertwined with a bit of a butcher area and sewing supplies mixed in-between. The hecticness and dirtyness of the area can be a bit too handle (i.e. walking through seriously smelly "toilet" areas and being stepped on or pushed by people with huge "items" on their head) but it just adds to the fun of the experience! I have learned a tiny bit of Bamana so I am now able to use my few words wisely and snag some better discounts (a barika= lower the price!).